Westmeath: The Heart Of The Midlands In Ireland’s Ancient East

Athlone Castle, Athlone, Co Westmeath (Sonder Visuals)

By Barry Coughlan

Musically, the County of Westmeath has consistently punched above its weight. The names of Count John McCormack, Joe Dolan, Niall Horan, Bressie, the rest of Dolan’s Drifters, and even the Cavan born Swarbrigg brothers – they mean anything? Those who haven’t heard and admired any of that list should be ashamed!

As somebody who grew up in the midst of a Showband music era in Ireland that ultimately translated into international fame and recognition by the likes of Dolan, Westmeath was on my map of Ireland long before other similar sized counties outside of my own Rebel Cork!

Long before Horan exploded onto the worldwide stage with One Direction and now as a lauded solo artist, Dolan became an international show stopper with the release of pop classic Make Me an Island and several more hits that charted in Ireland, the UK, around Europe, Africa and South America.

He was the only Irish singer to reach number one in the 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, and Dolan was a persistent presence in the music charts at home and overseas.

His voice and style has been described by music watchers thus: “Dolan’s voice was high with a comprehensive range without the use of falsetto and he made comprehensive use of a technique known a melisma. Vocal ranges such as this were not common in the 1960s and 1970s but were later made popular by artists such as Mariah Carey, Stevie Wonder and Whitney Houston.”

He toured the US, Europe, Africa, Australia and even Russia, and having declined several offers to set up a residency in Las Vegas from 1967, he finally yielded for two tours of duty on the world famous Strip where he even became a favorite with his mega-famous peers.

Dolan sadly departed this life on December 26, 2007 at the age of 68, but he has never been forgotten in the Irish and international music industry; In Mullingar, a 1,770 feet bridge was named after him in the Clonmore Industrial Estate. It’s the second longest bridge in the Republic of Ireland. There is also a statue of him in the town’s Market Square.

These days, Horan has continued to be hugely popular worldwide and is making an impact in many aspects of the music industry and on social media, but for those of us reared on the music of Dolan, I would have to say on behalf of his fans – for now – “There’s no show like a Joe Show.”

With population figures running neck and neck between Athlone and Mullingar, there’s often confusion as to which of them is the capital. Well, though Mullingar trails in population terms by 1,000 or so, it is the County Town!

Individually and between them, they’re by far the biggest urban centers in the county, with about half of the overall population of 88,000 residing in these two towns.

No prizes for guessing then where most of the nightlife can be found in Westmeath; with a sizeable student population Athlone, arguably, would shade it for after-dark activity, but Mullingar is still a vibrant center of fun.

Much quieter but important areas in the overall attractiveness of the county for tourists and commerce are such places as Moate, Kilbeggan, Kinnegad, Ballinahown, Delvin, Rochfortbridge, Killucan and Castlepollard.

Athlone stretches into Roscommon as well as Westmeath and it’s a crossing point of the Shannon and a popular stop for pleasure craft along the Shannon. Lough Ree, the largest lake on the river is a short distance upstream from Athlone, and many boat companies are based out of the town.

There are static attractions too, not least the Church of St Peter and Paul where stain glass windows from the Harry Clarke Studio (work of Richard Joseph King) can be seen and admired.

From the keep of Athlone Castle, visitors can enjoy views of the Shannon or higher up there are views beyond the town across the rooftops.

There’s a step back in history through playful interactive exhibits, touch screen animations and an immersive 360 degree cinematic experience that brings the Great Siege of Athlone to life.

Swords, cannon balls and stunning sculptures give these ancient stories depth. Vibrant displays and historic artefacts will lead visitors along a 3D timeline that illustrates Athlone’s last 200 years.

Here, visitors can enjoy the voice of John Count McCormack in a display dedicated to the memory of the world-famous Athlone tenor.

Belvedere House and Gardens, Mullingar, Co Westmeath (Westmeath County Council)

Mullingar’s main tourist attractions are its lakes – Lough Owel, Lough Derravaragh and Lough Ennell – which are visited by anglers, and the Royal Canal which flows through the town. Also nearby is Belvedere House and Gardens and Áras an Mhuilinn, the Regional Resource Center for the counties of Westmeath, Longford, Offaly and Laois. It’s a center for Irish music, song, dance and the Irish language.

The Mullingar skyline is dominated by the imposing Renaissance style Roman Catholic Cathedral which was completed in 1936. Constructed in the form of a basilica, the Cathedral of Christ the King has twin towers and a dome. Wonderful mosaics by Russian artist Boris Anrep are on display.

The cathedral, which boasts a modernized Renaissance style, is the seat of the Bishop of Meath. Inside, visitors can pass through the Ecclesiastical Museum that contains many historical artefacts including vestments worn by St. Oliver Plunkett, a ring once worn by Marie Antoinette and models of the area’s church buildings from the 17th century to the present day.

Belvedere House, Park and Gardens, is a 160 acre estate on the shores of Lough Ennell and features a fully restored Georgian villa, Victorian Walled.

The Victorian Walled Garden features many exotic plants and is well worth a visit, followed by stroll through the extensive mature woodlands and magical Fairy Garden. For children Belvedere offers lots to do, with four great play areas and a 100 feet zipline.

Facilities include a fully licensed café, gift shop and ample car parking. Visit www.belvedere-house.ie for more information.

Tullynally Castle’s majestic presence dominates a breathtaking landscape, with 12 acres of beautifully restored 18th century gardens, terraced lawns, remarkable mature trees, walled flower gardens and ornamental lakes.

It’s situated a mile from Castlepollard and the owner, Thomas Pakenham, has added a wealth of unusual trees and shrubs, many of them collected as seed on his travels, including superb collections of rare magnolias and lilies. More information can be found at: www.tullynallycastle.ie.

A 102 mile way marked walking/cycling trail commemorating a heartbreaking walk of forced emigration in 1847 at the height of the Irish famine is part located in Westmeath.

It begins at the memorial glass wall at the National Famine Museum, Strokestown Park in Roscommon, and continues through six counties to EPIC, the Irish Emigration Museum in Dublin’s Docklands.

It follows the route of the scenic Royal Canal, along the Royal Canal Greenway through Westmeath via Mullingar. The route is marked by more than 30 pairs of bronze children’s shoes. Information on nationalfamineway.ie.

Hill of Uisneach, Rathconrath, Co Westmeath (Liam Murphy)

Westmeath is also home to the Hill of Uisneach, the mythological center of Ireland; this ancient ceremonial site is one of the most sacred and historical sanctuaries in the world. The burial site of the Earth Goddess Ériu, the founder of Ireland and the Sun God Lug, this enigmatic hill became the seat of the High Kings of Ireland and the meeting point of the ancient provinces where laws were struck and divisions agreed. Details can be found on www.uisneach.ie.

Westmeath is currently marketed on the international stage as part of the Ireland’s Ancient East (IAE) proposition. In terms of attracting international visitors, it is recognized that the success of the county is dependent on the success of the region as a whole and that this will require close working relationships between tourism providers and other counties in order to achieve the best tourism offering available.

Tourism numbers are growing, and indications are that gains will continue in the coming years as significant investment continues at pace.

Further details on a county that’s on the up can be had at www.visitwestmeath.ie or www.discoverireland.com/westmeath/thingdo-westmeath