By Barry Coughlan
It was way back, maybe 50 years ago, when I first learned a bit about the origins of Irish surnames, my own specifically.
I cannot remember the circumstances of my visit to Clonmacnoise in County Offaly but I do recall a bit of banter going on between my parents, good humored “slagging” as it were on the credentials of their respective surnames, Coughlan v Healy.
There was to be only one winner on the day because this is the seat of the Coughlan Clan and the stamp of the Coughlans runs right through this area of the country; the burial stone inscriptions backed up my father’s brief claim to family fame.
But Clonmacnoise is much bigger than family boasts; this sixth century monastic site, located on the banks of the River Shannon is home to three high crosses, a cathedral, seven churches and two round towers and it was founded by St. Ciarán, who studied under St. Finian at the famous Clonard Abbey.
The strategic location of the monastery at a crossroads between the major east-west land route through the bogs of central Ireland and the River Shannon helped it become a major center of religion, learning, craftsmanship and trade by the 9th century.
Nowadays, apart from the enduring physical evidence of a remarkable time gone by, of a site so important to Catholic teaching that Pope John Paul II visited there on his busy trip to Ireland in 1979, there is a purpose built visitor center.
Here, a number of cross slabs are displayed. The centerpiece is the Cross of the Scriptures and the long and varied history of Clonmacnoise is recounted in an audiovisual presentation. Multi-lingual guided tours of the site are available and there are also exhibitions that deal with the flora, fauna and landscape of the region.
Over the years as I got to travel the length and breadth of Ireland, I came to appreciate that each and every county in this small island should be treasured for its beauty.
Even in the smallest, the least populated and least developed, there is something for everyone. Offaly has much more than one might expect.
You could just start with a visit to Clonmacnoise, or you could just walk one of the trails in the Slieve Bloom Mountains, where on a clear cloud-free day you might get to see the four highest points of each of Ireland’s four provinces.
All nature lovers will appreciate a visit to the Slieve Blooms as they are rich in flora and fauna and as many as sixty five different bird species have been sighted here.
Afterwards, one could relax in one of a number of cosy traditional pubs in Kinnitty or Cadamstown. This isn’t Dublin or Cork, this certainly isn’t Manhattan where it’s unlikely pub goers will converse readily with strangers. This is, well, this is Offaly, so be prepared to offload some life details to a stranger in some nook of a cosy atmospheric pub.
With a county of population of just 78,000, there are no huge towns, just Tullamore with 15,000 and Birr with shy of 6,000. The rest are just small villages, small but many of them atmospheric.
Birr Castle is a huge attraction for summer visitors to the midlands and until further notice there are 75 minute daily (except Sunday) guided tours outlining the rich history of a structure that has been home to the Parson’s family since 1620. The admission ticket allows guest to later explore 120 acres of parklands, to enjoy the nature trails and visit Ireland’s historic Science Center. Check www.birrcastle.com for booking.
The Shannon is world famous for many reasons, including the opportunity it offers for cruising on one of Europe’s finest natural inland waterways. Visitors could start a riverside adventure in Banagher and head north or south from there.
Shannonbridge, for instance, is good for angling by day, music and song by night; one could head to Athlone, the largest town on the River. A visit there will allow you to cross a border and hit two counties at once – Athlone is mostly situated in Westmeath, but part of the town is in Roscommon!
In Athlone too, there will be no shortage of music options and do try to visit Sean’s Bar, a pub recognized by the Guinness Book of Records as the oldest in Ireland.
Back in Offaly the Tullamore D.E.W Distillery has become the new home of a whiskey visitor experience that traces the process back from distillation to maturation. Visitors get to inhale the aromas from 50,000 oak casks but, more importantly, have a chance to taste the product and even mix some blends to take home!
The first production of the whiskey now known as “Tullamore Dew” was in 1829. The name came from the initials of the man who later owned the distillery and took this produce to the rest of the world – Mr. Daniel Edmond Williams.
But let’s get back to nature. Transformed from its previous incarnation as a commercial bog where peat was harvested to heat homes around the country, Lough Boora Discovery Park is home to countless species of birds and wildlife; it has fish-filled lakes and a permanent exhibition of huge outdoor sculptures. These sculptures give the park another-worldly feel, created using the old industrial materials of the bog such as locomotives, rail-line and timber, all crafted into magnificent works of art.
The raised bogs of the Midlands of Ireland evolved after the last Ice Age, around 15,000 years ago. Mesolithic people wandered through Ireland and one of the most important Mesolithic sites in Ireland is at Lough Boora. Two sites were excavated in 1977. You can visit the site of the ancient settlement by following the Mesolithic Route.
Cycling or walking offer other ways to enjoy the Mesolithic, Farmland and Turraun Cycle Routes. Use a bike to explore 12 miles of trails, winding through the park’s lakes, wetlands and species grasslands. www.loughboorabikes.ie
For walkers, Lough Boora offers trails ranging from a short stroll to longer treks through a diverse range of amenities. All routes start and end at the Visitor Center, with a level walking landscape that can be enjoyed by all age groups. There are 30 miles of paths in the Parklands ranging in length from a short stroll to the 10 mile Turraun Route.
And now one to test the imagination!
One brochure’s description of old Irish beliefs says: “Ireland, long recognized as the land of leprechauns, is currently discovering its long lost fairy heritage. The little winged folk have been much more visible of late and have been inviting us humans to catch a glimpse of their mystical world. There are at least four known fairy trails in Offaly with more being ‘discovered’ by families whilst out walking. If you did Lough Boora Parklands, you’ll likely have come across one Fairy Avenue.”
That Fairy Avenue, and others mapped for elsewhere in the county, is there in the physical sense. The reality, though, is that the facts or the fiction will both have to be left to your own imagination, dear reader!
Visitor information – www.visitoffaly.ie www.discoverireland.com