By Brad Balfour
With the holiday season upon us, the question of where to celebrate — whether for a Thanksgiving feast or for any time at all — becomes more than pertinent. Nestled in Manhattan’s Midtown is an exceptional, top-flight eatery, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse on 148 w 51st between 6th and 7th Avenues.
When I was first invited there for a delicious meal, I had no idea that I was actually dining at one of a number of restaurants under the same brand name. That’s because everything feels “personal” – from the warm and attentive service to the outstanding quality of the food. Now that I’ve been back a number of times, and I’m even more impressed by the consistent quality Ruth’s Chris offers. And from what I’ve heard, every location adheres to the same exacting standards to please each guest.
Let’s face it, steakhouse “chains” don’t often fare well with serious dining aficionados, critics and aesthetes. But Ruth’s Chris is far too gourmet to be called a chain. The place is genuinely special.
I have been fortunate enough to have consumed a number of meals there, where I’ve had my share of the house’s ongoing favorites, from incredibly rich and tender filet mignon to classic lobster mac and cheese. Several memorable recent dining sessions are not only worth recalling but deserve to documented here with you.
Most recently, I joined executive speechwriter and presentation coach, Mike G., longtime radio and club deejay Tony S. and international art-repreneur Agne S. in a full-out eating fest to further test the epicurean excellence I’d come to expect. We challenged ourselves to taste anything but the beef, just so we could focus on the other fine possibilities offered in both the seafood and poultry realms.
As Mike noted, “here we can enjoy a bountiful array of generous, delectable portions that people find themselves wanting to share. Lunch or dinner – it doesn’t matter. What matters is the clear commitment to quality and a diversity of tastes: something for everyone…”
“Even though officially from a ‘steakhouse,’ the wide range of options for varying tastes are here every time: seafood, vegetarian, pasta — all excellent. A few examples of my non-steak favorites include the spicy lobster tail and spicy shrimp. I love them both but sometimes I get a vegetable plate — always terrific — and a signature wedge of crisp iceberg lettuce over field greens, topped with bacon, bleu cheese and dressing. I never go wrong at Ruth’s.”
That night we deliberately selected main courses of the non-beef fare: like the stuffed double-breasted chicken that’s been oven roasted, filled with garlic herb cheese and topped with lemon butter. So sumptuous it seemed to be almost too rich in taste. I say “almost” because it’s was nearly irresistible to consume more than I should have at one sitting.
Then there’s the encrusted salmon slab and the wonderful and subtle red snapper. Both were perfectly balanced between the peppery crustiness and the core flavor of each fish — without being “fishy.”
But when it comes to the steaks and chops, Ruth’s Chris competes with the best in town. Having perfected broiling methods and seasoning techniques, the chef ensures that each cut of USDA Prime beef arrives cooked to perfection for the specific taste of the diner, always sizzling on a 500° plate — just the way Ruth liked it.
That what I’d had in my earlier meal with Publisher Paddy M. and Irish Whiskey magnate Jack W. On that day, we tried some incredible cuts including porterhouse (for two) — an overwhelming 40 ounces of prime beef with a strip’s rich flavor and a filet’s tenderness. And speaking of filet — the surf and turf filet was just enough tender meat, with not one part of the cut was a throwaway. I loved it all and manage to save a little to eat later at home.
With its odd name, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse has a classic backstory to tell. As described on its website, “Fifty years ago in New Orleans — one of America’s most culturally rich cities — single working mother Ruth Fertel, looking to provide a better life for her two sons, browsed the ‘Classifieds’ section of the Times-Picayune. She spotted an ad reading ‘Steak House for Sale.’
“Driven by an inherent entrepreneurial spirit, she mortgaged her home to purchase Chris’ Steak House on the corner of North Broad St. and Ursulines in New Orleans. She didn’t know much about restaurants or steak, but she took a chance with Chris Steak House.
“But the ‘Chris Steak House’ name wasn’t allowed to move with it. So with little time and a mischievous smile, Ruth added her own name to the sign, making it ‘Ruth’s Chris Steak House.’ And it worked — that tongue-twister of a name was born. Now with her own name in lights, Ruth later admitted the name was strange, but she managed to work around it. Ruth worked and lived by the mantra, ‘Do what you love, love what you do.’”
Even with all that history in mind, the 51st Street Manhattan location feels like it’s the first address they launched rather than one jewel in an entire collection. It has that settled in/worled quality that a fine restaurant develops over time. With a warm friendly ambiance and servers who are part of its history — server Mark has been working over 25 years — it’s not just a place well-known for its executive lunches and long night-time dining celebrations with an extensive crew of regulars. It’s also a place so personal and cordial, one could call it the next best thing to having a home-cooked meal. I’m struck by the consistent excellence I’ve experienced at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse.